Sewing with African Wax Print Fabric – Book Review

This month’s book review is different than my past reviews. In this post I am not only reviewing the book and the projects, but I will also be discussing the fabric and the process involved in making it.

The book is called, Sewing with African Wax Print Fabric and it is by Adaku Parker. She is also the founder of the African wax print fabric and pattern website, Dovetailed London. Her business imports the fabrics and she creates patterns to showcase these beautiful prints. All of the fabrics I used in my projects were purchased by me from Dovetailed London.

The Fabric

In the book, Adaku gives a brief history on the fabric. She discusses how it was the Dutch who brought the process to the African continent but the designs are distinctly African. The process is a bit complicated to explain, but I will give it a try. Basically, wax is applied to copper rollers in a particular design. It is then applied to the fabric and then the fabric is dyed. The areas where the wax design was applied will “resist” the dyes and this process creates the beautiful vibrant prints we know today as African Wax Print fabric, Wax Hollandais, or Ankara fabric. Traditional African wax print fabric is 100% cotton. Many of the designs contain motifs that have cultural or social meanings.

I wasn’t quite sure what to expect when I received my fabric since I had never used this type of fabric. Would it be stiff and waxy? Would it be shiny or matte? Would I be able to wash it and dry it in my machines? How much would it shrink? I am happy to report that I was able to wash and dry the fabrics in my machines with no problem and the fabric showed very minimal if any shrinkage. Some prints had a shinier finish than others but none was extremely shiny. And Adaku sends each shipment with an informational card enclosed. The fabric is very similar to a thick quilting cotton or broadcloth.

The Patterns

I had seen this book sometime last year and I knew I wanted to purchase it so early this year I did just that. Once I received the book, I couldn’t put it down. Not only are the fabrics beautiful but the author’s patterns are wonderful as well. There are twenty-six different projects you can make. You can imagine my dilemma in trying to decide which ones I would make for the post. Some of the projects are simple measure and cut patterns while 14 full-size pull out patterns also are included in US size 4-22 (UK 8-26). The only issue is that you have to trace your pieces and cut them out on pattern paper because the patterns are layered over one another. This makes it a little difficult to see, but the color coding helps. Just be sure to have adequate lighting.

The book has 4 chapters and the projects are divided as follows:

Tops, Skirts, and Pants

Dresses

Bags and Purses

Accessories

The dress patterns in this book are very lovely, but since I rarely wear dresses I decided I would make at least one project from each of the other three chapters. I decided on the Priscilla/Diana Shirt, the Althea A-line Skirt, the Beatrice Tote Bag, and the Iris Infinity Scarf.

Priscilla/Diana Shirt

There are two similar tops in the first chapter. One is the Priscilla t-shirt. It is a short t-shirt with a pleated neckline, binding along the neckline and sleeves and a curved bottom hem. The Diana is a similar design in a tunic-length t-shirt with a regular hem. I chose to combine the two by making the Diana but shortening it so that it was more t-shirt length than tunic length. I added binding only to the neckline, but I folded it in so it wouldn’t be visible. This gave the top a slightly dressier, more “blous-ey” look. I absolutely love the pleated neckline as it gives what could otherwise be a plain t-shirt, a distinctive and dressier vibe. I did have to take the sides about an inch because it was a little boxier than is my taste, but I love it and can’t wait for the warmer weather so that I can wear it! The fabric I used is called Festival.

Althea A-line Skirt

The Althea A-line skirt is a wonderful beginner pattern. It is a simple elastic waist a-line skirt with in-seam pockets and has only two pattern pieces. I had never sewn in-seam pockets before and the instructions were super easy to follow. The skirt turned out beautifully except for the fact that it was way too big on me. I sized down because I knew I wanted it a bit less roomy, but it was still too large. It was disappointing because it really is a lovely skirt. I will have to take it in but because of the in-seam pockets, it will take a bit of time. That being said, I would definitely recommend this pattern for a simple skirt but I would suggest sizing down a size or two and definitely making a muslin or a toile. The fabric I used is called Sugar.

Beatrice Tote Bag

Next I had to choose one of the bags to make. I narrowed it down between the Beatrice and the Toni. I opted for the Beatrice because this is the size bag I normally like to carry and the Toni is a larger tote. The Beatrice is a tall, shallow tote and I wanted something a bit shorter and deeper, but still medium-sized. It was very easy to modify. All I did was take a couple of inches off of the height and made the box corner a little bigger. I can’t tell you how much I love the technique used to give the tote lining a facing using the exterior fabric. I think I will be making all of my totes this way. It gives the tote a more polished look. It was so much fun making this tote – I will definitely be making more! The fabric I used is called Autumn.

Iris Infinity Scarf

Lastly – the accessories. So many lovelies to choose from. A scrunchie, headbands, an eye mask, an apron, a scarf, and a face mask. I chose the Iris Infinity Scarf and since I knew my daughters would fight over it, I had to make two! It is such a useful, fashionable, and super-quick make. You will make one and want to make another and another. I was able to make one start to finish in less than an hour. It would make a lovely gift if you need something in a pinch. The two fabrics I used are Put The Champagne on Ice and Nsubra.

In addition to the patterns and projects, there is also a section on techniques such as pattern matching, making pleats, applying zippers, and binding. There are also some templates for the smaller items. And the size chart in all the way in the back of the book if you are looking for it. As I mentioned earlier, I would suggest sizing down at least one size.

I enjoyed this book so much and I have enjoyed working with and learning about African wax fabrics. I know I said I was going to try to use my stash, but I think in this case an exception had to be made. How else would I be able to speak with any sense of authority?

If these fabrics have interested or intrigued you, I would suggest you give this book a try. I am so glad I did. And even if the bold prints are not your style, the patterns included in the book can be made using any number of wovens including lawn, rayon, voile, etc. But I would love for you to give this fabric a try. And if you make something from the book or using one of the fabrics, be sure to tag me on Instagram either @casocreativedesigns or @the_sewing_librarian or both.

Now that you have some inspiration – Make Something Beautiful Today!

You can purchase this book and most others that I have reviewed (or plan to) here.

If you liked this review, you might be interested in this one too…

Book(s) Review – Three Bag-Making Books by Sue Kim

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